La Manduca: Iconic Andorra Gourmet Shop Closes After 61 Years

After 61 years of operation, La Manduca, a beloved gourmet shop on Carrer Mossèn Cinto Verdaguer in Andorra la Vella—directly opposite the La Llacuna cultural centre—has closed its doors. The store's owner, 76-year-old Teresa Alàs, decided to retire following a change in the building's ownership and updated lease terms.

Alàs took over the family business, originally opened by her parents in 1965 as a traditional neighbourhood grocery stocking everyday essentials. Her father would drive a Volkswagen van to Lleida's market three times a week to buy fresh produce, which neighbours eagerly awaited. As large supermarkets arrived, the shop reinvented itself, shifting to high-end items like caviar, foie gras, reserve wines, and select fruits and vegetables that Alàs personally sourced daily from warehouses. "I always picked the best," she recalled with nostalgia.

For Alàs, the closure marks a natural step at her age, though she admits she could have continued longer. "I put off retirement a bit," she said, explaining that she no longer wished to negotiate tougher conditions. Clients, mainly from Catalonia and Valencia but also locals, were treated like family, regardless of background. "I never made distinctions," Alàs emphasised. She prided herself on advising customers, sharing the stories behind products—from the journey of a sardine tin to the ideal foie for cannelloni—turning sales into personal consultations.

The shop's end reflects broader changes in the neighbourhood, where longstanding businesses are fading. Anna from the nearby Frankfurt Cerni bar described the area as "a lively neighbourhood that's slowly dying." She often ran to La Manduca for basics like salt or cleaning gloves, and now finds the closed storefront heartbreaking.

Filo, who runs Alimentació Centre just 26 years into her own venture nearby, misses the friendly rivalry. "It wasn't real competition—we had different customers—but the neighbourhood feels sadder now," she said. Though times have changed, she noted the core remains "working to survive."

Neighbours praise Alàs's charisma and dedication. "It wasn't just a business; it was her life," said Anna, whom Alàs calls the "soul of the neighbourhood." Alàs still visits, chatting at Cerni and cherishing memories that outlast the shuttered storefront. A few traditional shops endure, but La Manduca's legacy endures in the stories of those who knew it.