Galápagos: unique wildlife, Darwin’s legacy and growing threats

The first time I heard about the Galápagos I thought it was a joke. A childhood fan of Cousteau and, later, Attenborough, I believed little could surprise me about the natural world. I knew, as everyone does, basic things about animals and habitats — but I had not been to the Galápagos.

About a thousand kilometres off Ecuador’s coast, in the Pacific, a scattered group of volcanic islands presents landscapes scored by craters and strange rock formations. It is easy to see why early sailors called them “The Enchanted Islands”: the wildlife seems to defy logic — penguins near volcanoes, marine iguanas that dive to feed under the sea, birds that swim but do not fly, and giant tortoises weighing more than two hundred kilos. The Galápagos giant tortoise can live more than 150 years.

What makes the archipelago irresistible to nature lovers is the animals’ near-indifference to humans. Unlike most places on Earth, many species here do not fear people, which allows very close observation and photography — often even with a mobile phone. This behavior stems from the fact that most of these species evolved without natural predators and the islands went centuries without visits from whalers or hunters. Despite the temptation to touch, rules are strict: for example, touching sea lion pups is prohibited because mothers may abandon them.

Each island offers a different surprise. Landscapes, vegetation and even beach colours change from shore to shore. You may lie on a deserted beach and watch a family of sea lions a few metres away; sit in the shade of a mangrove surrounded by giant tortoises; observe the mating dance of boobies and then snorkel in waters teeming with fish of all sizes and colours — from harmless reef sharks to nimble penguins weaving through crystalline water. Blue-footed boobies mark territory with a ring of droppings, another peculiarity among many.

The islands’ singularity attracted a very illustrious visitor nearly two hundred years ago. Inspired by the extraordinary diversity and odd creatures he found there, Charles Darwin wrote ideas that would transform how we understand life on Earth. Since then the Galápagos have been treated as a living laboratory for biologists and naturalists worldwide.

To protect this fragile ecosystem the Galápagos National Park and the Charles Darwin Foundation were established. Nonetheless, threats remain: human population growth, introduced domestic animals, illegal fishing and rising tourism all challenge species that never faced such pressures before. Laws have been tightened in recent years, and measures now limit fishing, residency permits and the number of visitors allowed each year.

Although one can stay on Santa Cruz and make day trips, the most effective way to explore the islands is by cruise. Boats travel overnight so each morning you wake up on a different island, with access to richer wildlife sites and more spectacular landscapes.